山's profile每个人都是一座孤独的城堡PhotosBlogLists Tools Help

Blog


    December 30

    大豆主义

    如果双休日吃饱饭没事做又或是喜欢自己动手做菜的,大都会去菜场逛一逛,呢么对清美肯定不陌生,一般它都在小菜场靠里的位置,多半挤在水产和牛羊肉摊位的中间,门面不会超过10平。清美的主营是各类豆制品,从豆浆豆腐到素鸡豆干,基本包含所有上海可见的常规豆制品。在印象里清美的历史最长不过五年,但似乎在最不景气的08年做得风生水起,不但品牌转型相当成功,连产品质量也提升地相当到位,让每餐无豆不欢的俺不禁有兴趣研究一下08年到底豆制品企业的流转发生多大变化。
      清美在升级。没有人会怀疑的,清美的品牌开始有上升的迹象,而最重要的是,随着品牌开始向中端迈进的同时,产品质量有了显著的提高。通常鄙人只能在看到和吃到成品后才会作出评论,这样很客观,也就是说,笔者并不能看到食材在烹饪前的状态,只是单纯的在完成后以味道排座次。这个冬天不同的是很冲动地买了火锅。在搬家后长达8年的无火锅冬天历史得以终结,也就是这个缘故,使得俺能看到诸多食材的本来面目。清美的变身让我一下子都没认出来,因为我要承认,实在太高级了,高级到让笔者以为味好美开始转做副食品了。是的,清美在VC上完全有照搬味好美之嫌,但由于过去本身底色就是绿的所以一时倒也无可厚非。笔者的舌头有够独特,能够接受所有豆制品,也就是说只要是市面上有卖的,任何烹饪方式笔者都吃得下去,包括火宫殿的黑漆漆臭豆腐、舟山的臭咸鱼味烧烤豆腐甚至是喂牛用的豆粕饼,只要能拿得出来俺就OK。叫人跌破眼镜的是它们的元祖大豆叔叔,俺却连闻都不能闻,稍微碰一碰绝对会厥倒,其中之最就是猪脚黄豆汤,绝对能让我五体投地。此前笔者曾保持一个记录,就是高中三年学校的午餐,连一滴黄豆汤都没有碰过。基于以上两个原因,对于8年来第一次在家吃火锅,俺是相当的注意,所以一次买了清美的四大金刚,面筋、豆腐、素鸭、豆腐干,准备大干一场。但买的时候傻眼了,因为我居然不认识谁是谁,原因就是它们已经换包装。这感觉其实很好理解,就如同大学里碰到小学同学,感觉很亲切,但当初的乡土气息全无,反而突然会陌生。除了换包装之外,产品系列也有所改变,面筋多了两种,一种是火锅专用的小面筋和炖菜专用的不会烂的耐煮型;另外也有多种产品做了细分。
      秉持“入嘴才有真滋味”的道理,任何食材和店家的外表都靠不住,只有食材本身在作为菜肴时所体现出的味觉的感官刺激才是评价食物的最基本也最客观的依据。真是很不错,面筋的确是不会烂,在吸收汤汁之后也还是很有嚼劲,绢豆腐和内酯豆腐也都很够味道。很多对烹饪有一定研究的人对食材的挑选是有自己的标准和手法的,但这些秘籍一般都是针对高级的食材的,或者更具体说是高价食材的,毕竟不是食家,没空研究怎么挑鸡毛菜。会挑选好的海产,会挑选好的山珍,却未必会选豆制品,因为太千篇一律了。笔者一直以为豆制品是中国对世界饮食文化的一大贡献,它使植物蛋白更容易也更便捷的被人体吸收,而操作却极其简单。对于好的豆味该如何鉴定?笔者是学物理出身,物理中关于质量的定义是所含物质的多少,很直白,诚然,评价豆味的终极标准也就是所含大豆成分的多少。豆制品的性价比也只有所含大豆成分的多少这唯一的标准,但这个标准并不明显也不官方,所以并不容易操作。一般而言新鲜的大豆制品由于已经将大豆在宏观程度上粉碎,所以芳香烃是可以充分发散的,所以,含量多的一定是含有浓烈的豆味的,如果你一定要叫豆腥味也可以。其次,就是所含大豆成分的多少必然体现在质量上。豆制品的主要质量集中在豆和水分上,所以对质量对密度一定要有很敏锐的手感,通常家庭装在300克左右最普遍,一定会有50克左右的差距。不要小视他们的区别,举例来说,有的素鸡在煎炸之后就会缩成一团硬邦邦没有咬头,不要以为是煎的时间太多或者切的太薄,其实根源就在于豆的部分太少了。以上海地区的素鸡而言,目前笔者最中意和常用的也是一个新出现的品牌叫祖名,大润发有售,当然要问和房大少有什么关系就不知道了,可惜他们其他的产品实在一般,销售渠道也不多,营销做得也很一般,前途堪忧。
      其他经常进入视线的大家肯定也有体会,就是旭阳,出现最多的当然是罗森。罗森在先后失去时尚感、区位优势和便当三个独一优势之后还是能经常诱惑我的钱包,就是因为有两大法宝,牛肉味可乐饼和旭阳的豆乳布丁,一定是必买品。旭阳的豆乳布丁还分原味和杏仁味,都很畅销。通常笔者偏爱杏仁味的,笔者的一位同样偏好杏仁味豆乳布丁的朋友评价道“就好像初吻的味道,清淡的甘甜中略带苦涩的回味”被公认为相当得真髓。但可惜旭阳不能得唔欢心的就是豆浆太差,一点豆味都没有,淡的喝水一样,而且还奇贵。90后的小朋友都不知道南市区是什么东东了,当然大多人就更不会知道还会有南市豆制品加工厂的存在了。偏偏笔者就是南市区出身,且离这个不出名的工场不超过200步,所以他们家的豆奶就像亲人一样了。索性目前还存在,就在云南路小吃街对面新亚大包旁边,可惜除了豆浆已经没有任何值得推荐的了。笔者一直认为,这个老的掉渣的豆制品加工厂就是笔者此后一生所持绝对大豆主义的发端。

    December 22

    终于被自己打败了

    Hello, Chicago!

    If there is anyone out there who still doubts that America is a place where all things are possible; who still wonders if the dream of our founders is alive in our time; who still questions the power of our democracy, tonight is your answer.

    It's the answer told by lines that stretched around schools and churches in numbers this nation has never seen; by people who waited three hours and four hours, many for the very first time in their lives, because they believed that this time must be different; that their voice could be that difference.

    It's the answer spoken by young and old, rich and poor, Democrat and Republican, black, white, Latino, Asian, Native American, gay, straight, disabled and not disabled — Americans who sent a message to the world that we have never been a collection of red states and blue states; we are, and always will be, the United States of America.

    It's the answer that led those who have been told for so long by so many to be cynical, and fearful, and doubtful of what we can achieve to put their hands on the arc of history and bend it once more toward the hope of a better day.

    It's been a long time coming, but tonight, because of what we did on this day, in this election, at this defining moment, change has come to America.

    I just received a very gracious call from Sen. McCain. He fought long and hard in this campaign, and he's fought even longer and harder for the country he loves. He has endured sacrifices for America that most of us cannot begin to imagine, and we are better off for the service rendered by this brave and selfless leader. I congratulate him and Gov. Palin for all they have achieved, and I look forward to working with them to renew this nation's promise in the months ahead.

    I want to thank my partner in this journey, a man who campaigned from his heart and spoke for the men and women he grew up with on the streets of Scranton and rode with on that train home to Delaware, the vice-president-elect of the United States, Joe Biden.

    I would not be standing here tonight without the unyielding support of my best friend for the last 16 years, the rock of our family and the love of my life, our nation's next first lady, Michelle Obama. Sasha and Malia, I love you both so much, and you have earned the new puppy that's coming with us to the White House. And while she's no longer with us, I know my grandmother is watching, along with the family that made me who I am. I miss them tonight, and know that my debt to them is beyond measure.

    To my campaign manager, David Plouffe; my chief strategist, David Axelrod; and the best campaign team ever assembled in the history of politics — you made this happen, and I am forever grateful for what you've sacrificed to get it done.

    But above all, I will never forget who this victory truly belongs to — it belongs to you.

    I was never the likeliest candidate for this office. We didn't start with much money or many endorsements. Our campaign was not hatched in the halls of Washington — it began in the backyards of Des Moines and the living rooms of Concord and the front porches of Charleston.

    It was built by working men and women who dug into what little savings they had to give $5 and $10 and $20 to this cause. It grew strength from the young people who rejected the myth of their generation's apathy; who left their homes and their families for jobs that offered little pay and less sleep; from the not-so-young people who braved the bitter cold and scorching heat to knock on the doors of perfect strangers; from the millions of Americans who volunteered and organized, and proved that more than two centuries later, a government of the people, by the people and for the people has not perished from this earth. This is your victory.

    I know you didn't do this just to win an election, and I know you didn't do it for me. You did it because you understand the enormity of the task that lies ahead. For even as we celebrate tonight, we know the challenges that tomorrow will bring are the greatest of our lifetime — two wars, a planet in peril, the worst financial crisis in a century. Even as we stand here tonight, we know there are brave Americans waking up in the deserts of Iraq and the mountains of Afghanistan to risk their lives for us. There are mothers and fathers who will lie awake after their children fall asleep and wonder how they'll make the mortgage, or pay their doctor's bills, or save enough for college. There is new energy to harness and new jobs to be created; new schools to build and threats to meet and alliances to repair.

    The road ahead will be long. Our climb will be steep. We may not get there in one year, or even one term, but America — I have never been more hopeful than I am tonight that we will get there. I promise you: We as a people will get there.

    There will be setbacks and false starts. There are many who won't agree with every decision or policy I make as president, and we know that government can't solve every problem. But I will always be honest with you about the challenges we face. I will listen to you, especially when we disagree. And, above all, I will ask you join in the work of remaking this nation the only way it's been done in America for 221 years — block by block, brick by brick, callused hand by callused hand.

    What began 21 months ago in the depths of winter must not end on this autumn night. This victory alone is not the change we seek — it is only the chance for us to make that change. And that cannot happen if we go back to the way

    So let us summon a new spirit of patriotism; of service and responsibility where each of us resolves to pitch in and work harder and look after not only ourselves, but each other. Let us remember that if this financial crisis taught us anything, it's that we cannot have a thriving Wall Street while Main Street suffers. In this country, we rise or fall as one nation — as one people.

    Let us resist the temptation to fall back on the same partisanship and pettiness and immaturity that has poisoned our politics for so long. Let us remember that it was a man from this state who first carried the banner of the Republican Party to the White House — a party founded on the values of self-reliance, individual liberty and national unity. Those are values we all share, and while the Democratic Party has won a great victory tonight, we do so with a measure of humility and determination to heal the divides that have held back our progress.

    As Lincoln said to a nation far more divided than ours, "We are not enemies, but friends... Though passion may have strained, it must not break our bonds of affection." And, to those Americans whose support I have yet to earn, I may not have won your vote, but I hear your voices, I need your help, and I will be your president, too.

    And to all those watching tonight from beyond our shores, from parliaments and palaces to those who are huddled around radios in the forgotten corners of our world — our stories are singular, but our destiny is shared, and a new dawn of American leadership is at hand. To those who would tear this world down: We will defeat you. To those who seek peace and security: We support you. And to all those who have wondered if America's beacon still burns as bright: Tonight, we proved once more that the true strength of our nation comes not from the might of our arms or the scale of our wealth, but from the enduring power of our ideals: democracy, liberty, opportunity and unyielding hope.

    For that is the true genius of America — that America can change. Our union can be perfected. And what we have already achieved gives us hope for what we can and must achieve tomorrow.

    This election had many firsts and many stories that will be told for generations. But one that's on my mind tonight is about a woman who cast her ballot in Atlanta. She's a lot like the millions of others who stood in line to make their voice heard in this election, except for one thing: Ann Nixon Cooper is 106 years old.

    She was born just a generation past slavery; a time when there were no cars on the road or planes in the sky; when someone like her couldn't vote for two reasons — because she was a woman and because of the color of her skin.

    And tonight, I think about all that she's seen throughout her century in America — the heartache and the hope; the struggle and the progress; the times we were told that we can't and the people who pressed on with that American creed: Yes, we can.

    At a time when women's voices were silenced and their hopes dismissed, she lived to see them stand up and speak out and reach for the ballot. Yes, we can.

    When there was despair in the Dust Bowl and depression across the land, she saw a nation conquer fear itself with a New Deal, new jobs and a new sense of common purpose. Yes, we can.

    When the bombs fell on our harbor and tyranny threatened the world, she was there to witness a generation rise to greatness and a democracy was saved. Yes, we can.

    She was there for the buses in Montgomery, the hoses in Birmingham, a bridge in Selma and a preacher from Atlanta who told a people that "We Shall Overcome." Yes, we can.

    A man touched down on the moon, a wall came down in Berlin, a world was connected by our own science and imagination. And this year, in this election, she touched her finger to a screen and cast her vote, because after 106 years in America, through the best of times and the darkest of hours, she knows how America can change. Yes, we can.

    America, we have come so far. We have seen so much. But there is so much more to do. So tonight, let us ask ourselves: If our children should live to see the next century; if my daughters should be so lucky to live as long as Ann Nixon Cooper, what change will they see? What progress will we have made?

    This is our chance to answer that call. This is our moment. This is our time — to put our people back to work and open doors of opportunity for our kids; to restore prosperity and promote the cause of peace; to reclaim the American Dream and reaffirm that fundamental truth that out of many, we are one; that while we breathe, we hope, and where we are met with cynicism, and doubt, and those who tell us that we can't, we will respond with that timeless creed that sums up the spirit of a people: Yes, we can.

    Thank you, God bless you, and may God bless the United States of America.

    希望奥巴马大叔和FBI们不会追究我的版权问题

    December 11

    哪都会冒出熟人

    关山不见月(4507946**) 18:41:23
    米娜桑 康帮哇
    关山不见月(4507946**) 18:41:46
    话说 今天我在车上碰到刘斌了
    关山不见月(4507946**) 18:42:28
    刘斌真会保养啊 5年越来越年轻 还剪了个短发
    关山不见月(4507946**) 18:42:42
    话说 短发果然是潮流啊  哇哈啊哈
    关山不见月(4507946**) 18:42:52
    然后我 华丽丽的飘走